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Half way through a nine-to-five winter in Melbourne and I had ants in my pants. I wanted a hike and I wanted some heat. Enter, a far north Queensland hikers escape – The Thorsborne trail, a 32km stroll on Hinchinbrook Island off the coast of Cardwell. Google images had promised pristine beaches, rainforest waterfalls and interesting wildlife. It didn't disappoint. The Thorsborne trail itself is a short one on the scale of multi day walks and if you were so inclined, could knock it off in a few days. But don't. This Island, with its fine sanded crescent moon beaches, rich rainforest and raging waterfalls is a tropical paradise, and once you are on there, the cost per person per night is just a fiver. The government imposed maximum of 40 hikers at a time also keeps the island mercifully crowd free.

Choosing Cardwell as my mainland base, I flew into Townsville on a Friday evening, taking the midnight greyhound up to Cardwell for a brief kip at the backpackers, before being ferried over to the island to begin the walk Saturday morning. The bus transfers can be a bit tricky depending on where you are flying in from. I was able to organise (with significant help from Jim at Cardwell backpackers) to arrive at 2am where I had a bed already made up and waiting for me. Jim had also arranged for a 'taxi' down to the boat ramp for an 8am departure to the island. Jim is a legend.

Unless you pack your dinghy, you will need to engage a ferry service to drop you off and grab you from the island. When I completed the walk, there was just one company operating from both north and south drop off points. It was easiest and cheapest to use the same company for both ends. Hinchinbrook Island Cruises were professional, on time, didn't forget to collect me at the end of the walk and even had a cold solo waiting in an esky on board for the journey home.

Walking north to south, I planned four nights on the island: Nina Bay, Little Ramsay Bay, Zoe Bay and Mulligan Falls. There are seven official camp sites along the trail; I met a French couple who were spending six nights, and staying at all but the last one. All camp sites that I used had water collection points near, and metal safety boxes to protect your sustenance from the native rodents, and other small mammals on the island that enjoy people food. One night, I was awoken by a rodent near my head trying to burrow into my tent; I'd forgotten a killer python in the tent side pocket. Use the boxes.

The camp sites themselves are, in a word, wonderful. Most are just off the beach, and have swimming opportunities ranging from small creeks, to raging waterfalls with families of Jungle Perch swimming in the waters beneath them. Swimming at the beaches themselves is warned against due to the possibility of crocs; I saw zero crocodiles. But I did spot several croc slides, and became wary of the tempting blue lagoons. I took no chances. More likely to eat you are the mozzies and sand-flies which, without repellent, would be an annoyance. Although the beaches aren't advisable for swimming, you will not be left wanting with swimming opportunities a plenty. Zoe Falls, Diamantina Creek and Mulligan falls will be counted as highlights.

As for track conditions, they vary. The trail is well marked and worn in both directions so staying on the trail is not really an issue. There are, however multiple river crossings, some that swell with the tides or rainfall, and some parts where the swamp seem to have just decided to eat the trail. The track was under water in parts between Banksia Bay and Zoe Bay, although nothing that a good sock wringing at the end of the day won't fix. Lesser known trails along the way include the walk up to Nina Peak on the first day, or the trek up the 1121m peak of Mount Bowen which requires a special permit and a party of at least 3. Nina peak however is easily accessible from the trail and can be done so before you descend into camp at Nina bay. You will notice a small clearing on the right from where Nina Bay is visible and where lie some makeshift log chairs from felled trees. You can drop packs here and take a brief but sweaty walk on the clear trail up to the top from where you will be treated to a view of Mount Bowen, the tributaries and the days of walking to come.

If you have space for a rod, the fecund waters south of Zoe Bay can be used for recreational fishing. At Zoe Bay I met a group of Kayakers on their way to Mission Beach, their leader David, had snagged in a 1.2m Spanish Mackerel off the coast, which he had gutted and hung from the tree at camp. There was far too much meat for their group so, on the third night of my walk, I was treated to a meal of fresh fish, both pan fried and cerviche. It doesn't get much better.

My wander came to an end with a pre-dawn rise and early morning walk to George Point from Mulligan Falls. Most choose Mulligan falls as their final night as the camp at George Point is barren, without water collection points, and is also lacking an amazing waterfall to swim under.

The Thorsborne Trail is the perfect walk for anyone wishing to escape for a bit and enjoy the tropics. Short, sultry days with the promise of a cool off in a creek or under a waterfall. I'll be back.

by Emina Adriaans

2016

LFRF acknowledges all the Traditional Owners of the land [or country] and pay our respects to the Elders, past and present of all of Queensland and urges you to please do the same.

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