Aboriginal Name - Not found
Half way through a nine-to-five winter in Melbourne and I had ants in my pants. I wanted a hike and I wanted some heat. Enter, a far north Queensland hikers escape – The Thorsborne trail, a 32km stroll on Hinchinbrook Island off the coast of Cardwell. Google images had promised pristine beaches, rainforest waterfalls and interesting wildlife. It didn't disappoint. The Thorsborne trail itself is a short one on the scale of multi day walks and if you were so inclined, could knock it off in a few days. But don't. This Island, with its fine sanded crescent moon beaches, rich rainforest and raging waterfalls is a tropical paradise, and once you are on there, the cost per person per night is just a fiver. The government imposed maximum of 40 hikers at a time also keeps the island mercifully crowd free.
Choosing Cardwell as my mainland base, I flew into Townsville on a Friday evening, taking the midnight greyhound up to Cardwell for a brief kip at the backpackers, before being ferried over to the island to begin the walk Saturday morning. The bus transfers can be a bit tricky depending on where you are flying in from. I was able to organise (with significant help from Jim at Cardwell backpackers) to arrive at 2am where I had a bed already made up and waiting for me. Jim had also arranged for a 'taxi' down to the boat ramp for an 8am departure to the island. Jim is a legend.
Unless you pack your dinghy, you will need to engage a ferry service to drop you off and grab you from the island. When I completed the walk, there was just one company operating from both north and south drop off points. It was easiest and cheapest to use the same company for both ends. Hinchinbrook Island Cruises were professional, on time, didn't forget to collect me at the end of the walk and even had a cold solo waiting in an esky on board for the journey home.
Walking north to south, I planned four nights on the island: Nina Bay, Little Ramsay Bay, Zoe Bay and Mulligan Falls. There are seven official camp sites along the trail; I met a French couple who were spending six nights, and staying at all but the last one. All camp sites that I used had water collection points near, and metal safety boxes to protect your sustenance from the native rodents, and other small mammals on the island that enjoy people food. One night, I was awoken by a rodent near my head trying to burrow into my tent; I'd forgotten a killer python in the tent side pocket. Use the boxes.
The camp sites themselves are, in a word, wonderful. Most are just off the beach, and have swimming opportunities ranging from small creeks, to raging waterfalls with families of Jungle Perch swimming in the waters beneath them. Swimming at the beaches themselves is warned against due to the possibility of crocs; I saw zero crocodiles. But I did spot several croc slides, and became wary of the tempting blue lagoons. I took no chances. More likely to eat you are the mozzies and sand-flies which, without repellent, would be an annoyance. Although the beaches aren't advisable for swimming, you will not be left wanting with swimming opportunities a plenty. Zoe Falls, Diamantina Creek and Mulligan falls will be counted as highlights.
As for track conditions, they vary. The trail is well marked and worn in both directions so staying on the trail is not really an issue. There are, however multiple river crossings, some that swell with the tides or rainfall, and some parts where the swamp seem to have just decided to eat the trail. The track was under water in parts between Banksia Bay and Zoe Bay, although nothing that a good sock wringing at the end of the day won't fix. Lesser known trails along the way include the walk up to Nina Peak on the first day, or the trek up the 1121m peak of Mount Bowen which requires a special permit and a party of at least 3. Nina peak however is easily accessible from the trail and can be done so before you descend into camp at Nina bay. You will notice a small clearing on the right from where Nina Bay is visible and where lie some makeshift log chairs from felled trees. You can drop packs here and take a brief but sweaty walk on the clear trail up to the top from where you will be treated to a view of Mount Bowen, the tributaries and the days of walking to come.
If you have space for a rod, the fecund waters south of Zoe Bay can be used for recreational fishing. At Zoe Bay I met a group of Kayakers on their way to Mission Beach, their leader David, had snagged in a 1.2m Spanish Mackerel off the coast, which he had gutted and hung from the tree at camp. There was far too much meat for their group so, on the third night of my walk, I was treated to a meal of fresh fish, both pan fried and cerviche. It doesn't get much better.
My wander came to an end with a pre-dawn rise and early morning walk to George Point from Mulligan Falls. Most choose Mulligan falls as their final night as the camp at George Point is barren, without water collection points, and is also lacking an amazing waterfall to swim under.
The Thorsborne Trail is the perfect walk for anyone wishing to escape for a bit and enjoy the tropics. Short, sultry days with the promise of a cool off in a creek or under a waterfall. I'll be back.
by Emina Adriaans
2016
LFRF acknowledges all the Traditional Owners of the land [or country] and pay our respects to the Elders, past and present of all of Queensland and urges you to please do the same.
Giraween is an Aboriginal word meaning "place of Flowers, but is notfrom the local language from the area
Girraween National Park is only a 4 hour drive southwest from the heart of Brisbane. You head to Warwick then follow the signs to Stanthorpe and from where it’s pretty easy to find your way to the park with the aid of google.
The National park is beautiful, filled with boulders and is named Girraween, an Aboriginal word meaning place of flowers. It has rich historic and cultural significance to local people in and around the granite belt, where Girraween is situated, and many Aboriginal groups use the area for different purposes. Over recent years scientists and historians have found axe heads and other stone tools, some of which originated in Papua New Guinea, possibly as part of trading between tribes- pretty wild when you think about it.
There are quite a few picturesque, kangaroo filled campgrounds to choose from all with a varying amount of grey nomad (old couples in caravans) sitting around. Conveniently, most of the hikes begin straight from the campgrounds so you can roll out of your swag, strap on your bush boots and set off. Easily the most popular hike in the park is to ‘The Pyramid’, which looks more like a bald guy's head than a pyramid. If you set off early enough the sun shimmers off the rock as if it was the glistening cranium of an olympic swimmer. After scaling the wrinkled forehead of the pyramid, you wander through some pretty impressive cracks between the rock and get an expansive panorama of the surrounding bush. There are also giant boulders that look like eggs on stands because the rock isbeing eaten away by some sort of algae at the base. They look like you could push them over without much effort and you can’t help but imagine you are on the set of a Wile E Coyotee & Road Runner cartoon, 'MEEP MEEP'.
Another classic naming flop is Castle Rock which again looks nothing like a castle but is just as satisfying with its abundance of flowers, boulders and sheer drops. It can be a bit hectic on a windy day so check how vigorously your tent is flapping before you set off.
All in all it’s a great place to walk, swim, camp and escape the summer humidity of Brisbane.
Get more information here:
rymich.com/girraween
by Max Blackmore
2013
LFRF acknowledges all the Traditional Owners of the land [or country] and pay our respects to the Elders, past and present of all of Queensland and urges you to please do the same.
Tibrogargan is a quick, challenging & visually rewarding climb all rolled into one mountainous package.
Only one hour north west of Brisbane in the Glasshouse Mountains, it’s easily accessed for an early morning climb or for acasual sunset hike. From the road Mount Tibrogargan looks like a gorilla hunching over but the stories run much deeper. Tibrogargan, neighboured by Mount Beerwah and Mount Coonowrin, tells a tale of family quarrel. Dream time stories states that as ocean waters rose Tibrogargan asked his son, Coonowrin to help his mother, Beerwah get to safety. Not helping his mother, Coonowrin felt the wrath of his father, who broke his neck and turned his back on him.
Quarrels' & neck breaking aside, Tibrogargan is a mere 364m high, with the path marked out by red markers or by the stream of climbers you are bound to see. The climb starts out as a deceivingly innocent gravel path which leads you to the cross road between the summit climb and the Tibrogargan circuit track. The summit path take you immediately to a steep rocky slope, thankfully guided by steel railings. Soon you are met by a rocky face, where the best climbing starts.
From here to the summit the climb will involve scaling rock walls with plenty of natural foot holes. Despite the presence of red markers, a lot of the route can be self devised. Once at the summit, walk east to the furthest point. Views from the top stretch out to the sunshine coast and Moreton bay. Pack a picnic.
Total trip will take you 3hours at a casual climb, including snack time at the top. Best climbed in the cooler months, Queensland temperatures can be unforgiving. Look out for cheeky snakes in the spring/summer. Post climb, head to the Beerwah Pub for a sneaky beer or to the coast for a therapeutic ocean swim.
by Ashleigh Dwyer
LFRF acknowledges all the Traditional Owners of the land [or country] and pay our respects to the Elders, past and present of all of Queensland and urges you to please do the same.
