First off the Larapinta is hard. Contrary to popular opinion the Central desert is not flat
and apparently the MacDonnell ranges once stood the height of the Himalayas. While millions of years of erosion mean they are not of this scale today; hiking the crags of red rock which seem to have effortlessly risen out of the ground in waves defying gravity is no easy feat. Head down and with your mind focused on keeping your footing it can be easy to forget to look around
until suddenly you are on a ridge and the ground gives way either side of you and great vistas of country open up before you in hues of purples blues yellows greens and ochres.
Second then is the landscape. The 223km of the Larapinta covers a great range of country as it follows the MacDonnell ranges west from Alice Springs to Mt Sonder. Some days are spent scrambling through dry creek beds in gorges clambering around boulders the size of houses and inching your way along ledges pack on and hands clinging to the gorge walls. Others will be spent walking along the vast plains that extend between the ranges with vegetation that is only broken by the bones of unfortunate camels or livestock that have lost their way. There are times when you have to scale virtually vertical rockfaces pulling your weight with your hands and times spent walking along razorbacks with sheer drops on either side. Some nights you can camp by waterholes ancient and sacred places full with icy water year round welcome respites after 10 or so sweaty days without a shower. Some nights you can camp on the top of mountains, surrounded by stars and nothing else. We spent our last night camping on Brinkleys Bluff (one of the biggest climbs ) and were treated to a full moon rising in the distance while the sun set behind us. If you are lucky, you might see a dingo or at least hear its calls.
I completed 10 of 12 sections of the Larapinta over 15 days, originally meant to be more but my knees gave out on day three and I needed a rest day. If you are going to tackle the whole Larapinta (it can also be done in sections of pretty much your choice in duration) there are a few things to be aware of. The walk is seasonal, yes you are in a desert, and is best done in the cooler months. This means it can be really, really cold during the night times (-3 in our case), which is something to consider especially if you plan on sleeping sans tent. Make the most of the opportunities to camp along the track breaking up sections even if it means you have to carry two days of water. There are several places to do food drops along the way and two places where you can buy snacks and shower which breaks up the load and means non‐powdered non-dehydrated treats. I would recommend walking from the Mt Sonder end, as the hardest days are towards Alice Springs allowing time to build up your fitness. I did not do this and paid the price by spending an afternoon virtually crawling down a mountain bum‐to‐step one step at a time as my knees caused me agony. I found myself clinging to makeshift stick-‐cum-‐walking-‐poles which days before I had openly mocked and would now swear by to anyone that has had problems with their knees. I think most people seem to experience a few days of blistered sore feet and aching limbs which improve as you grow stronger.
The Larapinta is an unforgiving track physically tough and demanding but it rewards you too. There is no doubt you are walking on ancient land and there is something special about spending an extended period of time so closely within it. The Larapinta requires planning and perseverance but grants you access to places you could never otherwise see. To dedicate such an extended period of time to walking and nothing else is a privilege that one cannot often afford a privilege that tests you mentally and physically and leaves you leaner and stronger. It is a privilege that I would highly recommend.
(apologies but we could not find a workable map)
by Rebecca McCauley
2015
rebeccajanemccauley.com
LFRF acknowledges all the Traditional Owners of the land [or country] and pay our respects to the Elders, past and present of all of The Northern Territory and urges you to please do the same.
