THERE’S something vaguely feral about French Island National Park. Like scenes from Mad Max: an evocative mixture of white dust, sand, undulating tracks and complete silence.

The island is a perilously curious combination of desolation and lawlessness propped neatly against well-maintained national park and respectable, clean services. It sits prostrate in the water, a 170 sq km landmass in eyeshot of Phillip Island, yet few venture across to explore. The ferry from Cowes on Phillip Island or Stony Point - the only way to access the island - is punctual and fast. Vehicles are left unregistered - unmaintained - lining the Tankerton jetty reserve. A general store just 3km from the jetty provides respite from the heat should you wish to drop in for a wine and a sandwich. An old prison on the far side of the island is rumored to be slated for development for tourism in future. But turn left at the jetty and walk away from the cars and the store - away from the people - and being to plunge inwards.

There is a small permanent population of people inhabiting the island. Before European settlement in the 1800s, the island was frequented by the Bunurong people as a hunting ground. The island is an unincorporated area. It is relatively isolated and underdeveloped. But therein lies the beauty. The roads are flat, but heavily corrugated. The occasional local hurls past you in some clapped out old car while you walk. They will get out of your way, lazily lifting a friendly finger off the steering wheel to acknowledge you, leaving white dust blazing in their wake. Echidnas the size of wombats gentle ambulate along the side of the road. If you stay still long enough, they may even venture up to you and give you a curious sniff.

With a sporadic car ferry running from Corinella, taking your own car isn’t an option. The only way to access the Fairhaven campsite is to walk the 5km coastal track. It's not a complicated trip to get onto the island, nor is it hard to ambulate around once you arrive. One can easily clock up 15km of walking a day. Establishing your campsite first and loading up a lighter day pack with water and snacks makes the walk up to The Pinnacles Lookout even easier sans 16kg pack strapped to your back. The Pinnacles walking track is a 40 minute walk from the campsite, and a further 3.2km inland. From the vantage point up high, one can see Phillip Island, Stony Point, and all of French Island rolling down and away to the horizon. Either trek back the way you came, or continue on down through the West Coast wetlands walk. Give yourself two hours to complete the circuit.

With relatively flat tracks and a short 5km walk into the Fairhaven campsite, French Island is not difficult. It is a simple hike. The journey of two trains and a ferry to get onto the island, along with the added adventure of having to hike all your gear into the campsite elevates the trip’s simplicity to something a little more special.

Camping is free, but bookings are essential.

By Made Stuchbery

2018

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